Audit your home's electrical system for safety hazards including outdated wiring, overloaded circuits, faulty outlets, and missing ground fault protection.
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Breaker Panel Inspection
Check the panel for proper labeling
Every breaker should be labeled with the room or circuit it controls. Unlabeled panels make it impossible to shut off power during emergencies. Relabeling takes 30-60 minutes with a helper toggling circuits while you map them.
Look for signs of overheating or damage
Open the panel door and look for scorched wires, melted plastic, or a burning smell. Black marks around any breaker indicate arcing, which is a fire hazard. If you see any of these signs, call a licensed electrician immediately — do not touch the panel.
Verify the panel capacity meets your home's needs
Most homes built after 1970 have 200-amp service. Older homes may have 100-amp or even 60-amp panels. If breakers trip frequently, you may be exceeding capacity. Upgrading from 100 to 200 amps costs $1,500-$3,000 and is essential for modern appliance loads.
Check for double-tapped breakers
A double-tapped breaker has 2 wires connected to a single breaker terminal — this is a code violation and fire risk. Each breaker should have only 1 wire unless it's rated for 2. Adding a tandem breaker or subpanel ($300-$600) fixes this properly.
Test all breakers by switching off and on
Flip each breaker off and back on. A breaker that won't stay on or feels loose needs replacement ($10-$20 per breaker, $100-$200 for an electrician to install). Breakers that don't trip during an overload are equally dangerous — they allow wires to overheat.
Outlet and Switch Testing
Test all outlets with a plug-in circuit tester
A 3-light outlet tester ($10-$15) identifies open grounds, reversed polarity, and open neutrals instantly. Test every outlet in the house — the whole process takes 30-45 minutes. Fix any faults before they cause shocks or damage electronics.
Check for warm or discolored outlet covers
Feel every outlet and switch plate. Warmth indicates a loose connection, overloaded circuit, or failing device behind the plate. A warm outlet is a fire warning sign. Turn off the breaker and call an electrician if any plate feels noticeably warm.
Test all GFCI outlets with the test/reset buttons
Press the TEST button — the outlet should click and lose power. Press RESET to restore it. GFCI outlets that don't trip need immediate replacement ($15-$25 per outlet). Code requires GFCI protection in kitchens, bathrooms, garages, outdoors, and basements.
Verify GFCI protection in all required locations
Every outlet within 6 feet of a water source needs GFCI protection. This includes kitchen counters, bathroom vanities, laundry rooms, garages, and all exterior outlets. A missing GFCI outlet costs $15-$25 in parts and takes an electrician 15-30 minutes to install.
Check for loose or damaged outlets and switches
Plug in a heavy appliance cord and gently tug — the plug should hold firmly. A loose outlet means the internal contacts are worn. Replace worn outlets ($2-$5 each). A loose plug in a worn outlet generates heat and can start a fire.
Wiring Inspection
Identify your home's wiring type
Homes built before 1965 may have knob-and-tube wiring, which lacks grounding and is a fire risk. Homes from 1965-1975 may have aluminum wiring, which expands and creates loose connections. Both types cost $8,000-$15,000 to replace and affect insurance rates.
Inspect visible wiring in attic and basement
Look for frayed insulation, exposed copper, chewed wires (rodent damage), and wires resting on hot pipes. Damaged insulation on a single wire can cost $100-$300 to repair. Extensive damage may indicate the entire run needs replacement.
Check for proper junction box usage
Every wire splice must be inside a covered junction box — exposed splices are a code violation and fire hazard. Look in the attic and basement for wire nuts without boxes. Adding a junction box costs $5-$10 in materials per location.
Verify grounding throughout the house
Use your outlet tester to confirm 3-prong outlets are properly grounded. Two-prong outlets have no ground wire — they should be replaced with GFCI outlets ($15-$25 each) for safety, even without a ground wire present. GFCI provides shock protection without grounding.
Safety Devices
Test all smoke detectors
Press and hold the test button on each detector until it sounds. Replace batteries annually (or when the low-battery chirp starts). Replace the entire detector every 10 years — check the manufacture date on the back. Detectors cost $10-$30 each.
Verify smoke detectors are in all required locations
Code requires detectors inside every bedroom, outside each sleeping area, and on every level of the home including the basement. A typical 3-bedroom home needs 5-7 detectors. Interconnected detectors ($25-$40 each) all sound when one is triggered.
Test carbon monoxide detectors
Press the test button to verify function. CO detectors expire after 5-7 years — replace if expired. Install on every level and near sleeping areas. CO detectors cost $20-$40 each. Carbon monoxide is colorless and odorless — without a detector, exposure can be fatal.
Check for arc-fault circuit interrupter (AFCI) protection
AFCI breakers ($30-$50 each) detect dangerous arcing in wires and shut off power before a fire starts. Modern code requires AFCI protection in bedrooms, living rooms, and most habitable rooms. Older homes without AFCI breakers should be upgraded during any panel work.
Load Assessment and Next Steps
Identify overloaded circuits
A standard 15-amp circuit safely handles 1,440 watts (12 amps continuous). Add up the wattage of everything plugged into each circuit. Space heaters (1,500W) and hair dryers (1,200W) alone max out a circuit. Spread high-draw items across different circuits.
Check for excessive use of extension cords and power strips
Permanent extension cord use means the room needs more outlets. Each additional outlet costs $150-$250 installed. Daisy-chaining power strips is a fire hazard — one strip per outlet maximum. Extension cords under rugs overheat and melt.
Document all findings and prioritize repairs
List each issue with its location and severity. Safety hazards (exposed wires, missing GFCIs, warm outlets) should be fixed immediately. Convenience improvements (additional outlets, better labeling) can wait. A full electrical inspection by a licensed electrician costs $200-$400.
Schedule a professional inspection for any concerns
If you find aluminum wiring, knob-and-tube, warm outlets, or frequent breaker trips, hire a licensed electrician for a full inspection. They can access inside walls and panels safely. Many electricians offer free estimates for repair work identified during an inspection.
Frequently Asked Questions
How often should a home electrical inspection be done?
Get a professional electrical inspection every 10 years for homes under 25 years old, and every 5 years for older homes. Homes built before 1970 with original wiring should be inspected immediately if they have not been recently. An inspection is also warranted after purchasing a home, before a major renovation, after storm damage, or if you notice flickering lights, frequent breaker trips, or a burning smell near outlets.
How much does an electrical safety inspection cost?
A licensed electrician charges $150-$400 for a full home electrical inspection, depending on home size and age. The inspection covers the panel, outlets, wiring, and safety devices and typically takes 2-3 hours. Some electricians offer the inspection free or at a discount if you hire them for follow-up work. Insurance companies and home warranty providers sometimes require an inspection report, and the cost is usually not reimbursable.
Is aluminum wiring in a house dangerous?
Aluminum wiring (installed in homes from 1965-1975) is a fire risk at connection points where it contacts copper or steel. Aluminum expands and contracts more than copper, loosening connections over time. Homes with aluminum wiring are 55 times more likely to have fire-hazard conditions at outlets, according to the CPSC. The fix is COPALUM connectors ($50-$80 per outlet, installed by a licensed electrician) or a full copper rewire ($8,000-$20,000 for an average home).
Where are GFCI outlets required in a house?
Current NEC code requires GFCI protection in bathrooms, kitchens (within 6 feet of the sink), garages, outdoors, basements, laundry rooms, and near swimming pools and hot tubs. Older homes may lack GFCI outlets in these areas. Retrofitting a standard outlet to GFCI costs $15-$25 per outlet in parts and takes 10 minutes for a DIY install. A GFCI outlet at the first position in a circuit protects every outlet downstream on that circuit.
How do I know if my electrical panel needs an upgrade?
Signs you need a panel upgrade include a 100-amp panel in a home over 2,000 sq ft, frequent breaker trips, no room for additional circuits, a fuse box instead of circuit breakers, or visible corrosion and burn marks. Upgrading from 100 to 200 amps costs $1,500-$3,000 including a new panel, breakers, and the utility meter. Federal Pacific and Zinsco panels (common in 1960s-1980s homes) have known defect rates of 25-40% and should be replaced regardless of symptoms.