Maintain a healthy lawn year-round with season-specific tasks covering fertilization, mowing, aeration, weed control, and winterization for lush, green grass.
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Early Spring (March-April)
Rake out dead grass and debris (dethatch if needed)
A thatch layer thicker than 1/2 inch blocks water and nutrients. Rent a power dethatcher ($50-$75/day) for lawns over 2,000 sq ft. For small lawns, a stiff-tined rake works. Dethatch when grass is actively growing, not dormant.
Apply pre-emergent herbicide before soil hits 55°F
Pre-emergent prevents crabgrass and other annual weeds before they sprout. Apply when soil temperature stays at 55°F for 3 consecutive days. A 5,000 sq ft bag costs $20-$35. Too late and crabgrass is already growing.
Sharpen mower blades before first cut
Dull blades tear grass, leaving brown tips and inviting disease. Sharpen blades every 25 hours of mowing or at least twice per season. A new blade costs $15-$25. Professional sharpening costs $10-$15.
Set mower height to 3-3.5 inches for the first mow
Mowing too short in spring stresses the lawn and encourages weeds. The one-third rule: never cut more than 1/3 of the blade height at once. If grass is 4.5 inches, cut to 3 inches.
Overseed any bare or thin patches
Rake bare spots to expose soil, spread seed at 6-8 seeds per square inch, and lightly cover with 1/4 inch of topsoil. Keep seeded areas moist (light watering 2x daily) for 2-3 weeks until germination. Seed costs $3-$6 per pound.
Late Spring to Summer (May-August)
Apply first round of fertilizer
Use a slow-release nitrogen fertilizer (look for at least 50% slow-release on the label). Apply at 1 lb of nitrogen per 1,000 sq ft. A 12,000 sq ft bag costs $25-$45. Water in within 24 hours of application.
Mow weekly at 3.5-4 inches during peak growth
Taller grass shades the soil, reducing weed germination and water evaporation. Mow in different directions each week to prevent ruts and encourage upright growth. Mowing the same pattern creates visible lines and compacted tracks.
Water deeply 1-2 times per week instead of daily
Lawns need 1-1.5 inches of water per week including rainfall. One deep watering of 1 inch encourages roots to grow 6-8 inches deep. Daily light watering keeps roots shallow and weak. Set out a tuna can to measure output.
Spot-treat weeds as they appear
A hand pump sprayer ($10-$15) with post-emergent herbicide targets individual weeds without killing surrounding grass. Spray when temperatures are below 85°F to avoid damaging the lawn. Most weeds die within 7-14 days of treatment.
Monitor for grubs and lawn pests
Cut a 1-square-foot section of sod and count grubs. More than 10 grubs per sq ft requires treatment. Grub killer ($20-$30 per 5,000 sq ft bag) works best in July-August when grubs are small. Brown patches that lift like carpet indicate grub damage.
Apply second round of fertilizer in June
Space fertilizer applications 6-8 weeks apart. Skip this round if you're in a drought and the lawn is dormant — fertilizing dormant grass wastes money and can burn the lawn when it wakes up.
Early Fall (September-October)
Aerate the lawn with a core aerator
Rent a core aerator ($60-$90/day) and make 2 passes over the entire lawn. Cores should be 2-3 inches deep and spaced 3-4 inches apart. Aerate when soil is moist but not soggy. This is the single most impactful thing you can do for compacted lawns.
Overseed the entire lawn for thicker coverage
Spread seed at 3-4 lbs per 1,000 sq ft for cool-season grasses (fescue, bluegrass, ryegrass). The best time to seed is when soil temperatures are 50-65°F. Fall seeding has 70% better germination than spring seeding.
Apply fall fertilizer with high potassium
Use a winterizer formula with a ratio like 10-0-20 (nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium). Potassium strengthens roots and improves cold tolerance. Apply 6-8 weeks before the first hard freeze. This is the most important fertilizer application of the year.
Spread lime if soil test shows low pH
Apply 50 lbs of pelletized lime per 1,000 sq ft if pH is below 6.0. Lime costs $4-$8 per 40-lb bag. Fall application gives lime 4-6 months to adjust the soil before spring growing season.
Continue mowing until grass stops growing
Gradually lower mowing height to 2.5-3 inches for the final 2-3 cuts of the season. Shorter grass going into winter reduces snow mold risk. Don't scalp it — just slightly shorter than summer height.
Late Fall to Winter (November-February)
Remove fallen leaves before they smother the lawn
A thick leaf layer blocks sunlight and traps moisture, causing fungal disease. Mulch leaves with a mower if the layer is thin (1-2 inches). Rake or blow leaves if the layer is thicker. Shredded leaves make excellent garden mulch.
Winterize the irrigation system
Blow out sprinkler lines with compressed air (40-80 PSI) before the first freeze. A professional blowout costs $50-$100. Frozen water in pipes cracks fittings and valves — repairs cost $100-$300 per zone.
Shut off the water supply to the irrigation system
Open all drain valves or blow out lines with compressed air
Clean, service, and store the lawn mower
Drain or stabilize fuel (add fuel stabilizer, $5-$8 per bottle). Change the oil ($5-$8), clean the air filter, and disconnect the spark plug. A winterized mower starts reliably in spring and lasts 2-3 years longer.
Avoid walking on frozen or dormant grass
Foot traffic on frozen grass breaks the blades and creates dead spots visible in spring. Keep off the lawn when it's frosted or covered in snow. Designate a gravel or paved path for winter access.
Frequently Asked Questions
How often should I mow my lawn during peak growing season?
During late spring and summer, mow every 5-7 days when grass is actively growing. Set your mower blade to cut no more than one-third of the grass height per mowing. For most cool-season grasses, maintain a height of 3-3.5 inches, which promotes deeper root growth and crowds out weeds.
What is the best time of year to overseed a lawn?
For cool-season grasses (fescue, bluegrass, ryegrass), overseed in early fall between mid-August and mid-September when soil temperatures are 50-65°F. Warm-season grasses (Bermuda, zoysia) do best when overseeded in late spring. Fall overseeding gives seeds 6-8 weeks of mild weather to establish before winter dormancy.
How much does professional lawn care cost per year?
Professional lawn care runs $1,200-$3,600 per year for an average quarter-acre lot, depending on services included. Basic mowing-only plans start around $100-$200 per month. Full-service programs that include fertilization, weed control, aeration, and overseeding typically cost $250-$400 per month in most U.S. markets.
Should I bag or mulch grass clippings?
Mulching is the better choice in most situations. Grass clippings decompose within 1-2 weeks and return up to 25% of the nitrogen your lawn needs, reducing fertilizer costs by $50-$100 annually. Only bag clippings when grass is excessively tall, wet, or diseased, as thick clumps can smother the lawn underneath.
When should I apply grub control to my lawn?
Apply preventive grub control (containing chlorantraniliprole) in April-May before grubs hatch, or use curative treatments (containing trichlorfon) in August-September when grubs are small and feeding near the surface. Signs of grub damage include brown patches that peel back like carpet, and more than 10 grubs per square foot of soil warrants treatment.