Design and build a patio from material selection and grading through base preparation, paver or concrete installation, and furnishing for an outdoor living area.
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Design and Planning
Determine patio size based on intended use
Allow 25 sq ft per person for comfortable seating. A dining area for 6 needs at least 12x12 feet (144 sq ft). Add 8x8 feet for a grill area. Most patios range from 200-500 sq ft total.
Choose patio location and orientation
A west-facing patio gets afternoon and evening sun — ideal for dinner entertaining. An east-facing patio stays cool in the afternoon. Position at least 3 feet from the house foundation to allow proper drainage away from the structure.
Select patio material
Concrete pavers cost $8-$15 per sq ft installed. Poured concrete runs $6-$12 per sq ft. Natural stone (flagstone, bluestone) costs $15-$30 per sq ft. Pavers are the easiest to repair — you can replace individual damaged pieces.
Compare pavers, poured concrete, and natural stone
Order samples and test in your outdoor lighting
Check local codes and pull a permit if needed
Some jurisdictions require permits for patios larger than 200 sq ft or those with electrical or gas lines. Permits cost $100-$400. Attached patios that connect to the house are more likely to need a permit than freestanding ones.
Call 811 to mark underground utilities
Patio excavation goes 6-10 inches deep — enough to damage shallow utility lines. The 811 call is free and marking takes 2-3 business days. Striking a gas or water line during excavation costs thousands to repair.
Site Preparation
Mark the patio outline with stakes and string
Use spray paint on the grass for curved shapes or stakes and string for straight edges. Add 6 inches beyond the patio edge on all sides for the base material. Check corners for square using the 3-4-5 triangle method.
Excavate the area to the correct depth
Remove 7-9 inches of soil for most paver patios (4 inches base + 1 inch sand + 2-3 inches paver). Rent a skid steer ($200-$350/day) for patios over 200 sq ft. Haul away excavated dirt or use it for grading elsewhere.
Grade the base for drainage away from the house
Slope the patio 1/4 inch per foot away from the house. A 12-foot-deep patio should be 3 inches lower at the far edge. Use a string line and level to check slope at multiple points across the excavation.
Compact the subsoil with a plate compactor
Rent a plate compactor for $60-$90 per day. Make 2-3 passes over the entire area. Compacted subsoil prevents settling, which causes pavers to shift and crack. Skip this step and your patio will be uneven within a year.
Base and Edge Installation
Spread and compact gravel base in 2-inch lifts
Use 3/4-inch crushed gravel (also called road base). Spread 2 inches at a time, compact, then add 2 more inches. Total base depth should be 4-6 inches. One cubic yard of gravel ($30-$50 delivered) covers about 80 sq ft at 4 inches deep.
Install edge restraints around the perimeter
Plastic paver edging costs $3-$5 per 8-foot section. Anchor it with 10-inch spikes every 12 inches. Without edge restraints, pavers spread apart over time and the edges crumble. Install edging before laying sand.
Screed a 1-inch layer of bedding sand
Use concrete sand (not play sand). Set two 1-inch conduit pipes parallel as screed rails, fill between them with sand, and drag a straight board across the tops. Remove the pipes and fill the channels by hand.
Paver or Surface Installation
Lay pavers starting from a straight edge or corner
Start from the most visible corner and work outward. Place pavers directly down onto the sand — never slide them, which disturbs the bed. Keep joints tight at 1/8 inch between pavers.
Cut border pavers to fit using a wet saw
Rent a masonry wet saw ($50-$80/day) for clean cuts. A diamond blade cuts through concrete pavers in 5-10 seconds. Wear safety glasses and hearing protection. Cut pavers should be at least half their original size for structural stability.
Check surface for level and flatness as you go
Place a 4-foot level across the surface every 3-4 rows. Any high spots should be tapped down with a rubber mallet. Low spots mean insufficient sand underneath — lift the paver, add sand, and reset it.
Compact the entire surface with a plate compactor
Make 2-3 passes with the plate compactor to set pavers into the sand bed. Place a rubber pad on the compactor plate to avoid scratching paver surfaces. This step locks the pavers together and creates a solid surface.
Sweep polymeric sand into all joints
Polymeric sand ($20-$30 per 50-lb bag) hardens when wet and locks pavers in place. Sweep it into every joint, then mist with water per the manufacturer's directions. One bag fills joints on about 50-75 sq ft.
Furnishing and Finishing
Arrange outdoor furniture for the intended use
Leave 36 inches between furniture and the patio edge for walking. A dining table for 6 needs a 10x10-foot area minimum. A lounge set (sofa, 2 chairs, table) fits in an 8x10-foot zone.
Add shade with an umbrella, pergola, or sail
A 9-foot patio umbrella ($80-$200) shades a 6-foot diameter area. A shade sail ($30-$80) covers 10-16 feet across. A built pergola with shade fabric costs $2,000-$5,000 but adds the most value to the property.
Install outdoor lighting
Solar path lights ($3-$8 each) line the patio edge without wiring. String lights ($15-$40 per 50-foot strand) create ambiance. For permanent fixtures, run a 20-amp outdoor circuit ($300-$600 for an electrician).
Add planters and landscaping around the edges
Border the patio with low plantings (12-18 inches tall) to soften the edge. Large planters ($20-$50 each) placed at corners frame the space. Leave a 3-inch gravel strip between the patio edge and plantings for drainage.
Frequently Asked Questions
How much does a paver patio cost per square foot?
Concrete pavers cost $8-$15 per square foot installed, natural stone runs $15-$30, and stamped concrete costs $12-$20. A 300 sq ft paver patio typically totals $3,000-$6,000 including base materials, edging, and labor. DIY installation saves 40-50% on labor but requires renting a plate compactor ($60-$80/day) and takes a full weekend for a medium-sized patio.
How thick should the gravel base be under a patio?
Use 4-6 inches of compacted crushed gravel (3/4-inch minus) for most patio installations. In areas with clay soil or freeze-thaw cycles, increase the base to 8-10 inches. Top the gravel with 1 inch of leveling sand before laying pavers. Each inch of compacted gravel base requires roughly 1.5 inches of loose gravel, so order accordingly. Skipping or thinning the base leads to settling and uneven pavers within 1-2 years.
What is the best patio material for cold climates?
Concrete pavers with a high PSI rating (8,000+) and low water absorption handle freeze-thaw cycles best. Natural bluestone and granite are also excellent in cold climates due to their density. Avoid poured concrete without proper control joints, as it cracks during freeze-thaw. Permeable pavers ($10-$20/sq ft) allow water to drain through joints rather than pooling and freezing on the surface, reducing ice buildup.
Do you need a permit to build a patio?
Ground-level patios on grade (pavers, flagstone, gravel) typically do not require a building permit. Raised patios above 30 inches, patios with roofed structures (pergolas), and any patio with electrical or gas lines for outdoor kitchens or fire pits usually do require permits. Check your local setback requirements too, as patios must stay a certain distance (often 3-10 feet) from property lines and easements.
How do I prevent weeds from growing between patio pavers?
Polymeric sand ($20-$30 per 50-lb bag, covers 50-75 sq ft) is the most effective solution. It hardens when wet and prevents weed seeds from settling into joints. Apply it after installation and reapply every 3-5 years. For existing patios with weed problems, a propane torch weed burner ($30-$50) kills weeds instantly without chemicals. Avoid pressure washing polymeric sand joints, as high pressure washes it out.