A practical guide to designing and installing backyard landscaping, from site surveys and drainage to plant selection, irrigation, and budget planning.
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Site Survey and Analysis
Measure your yard and create a scaled drawing
Use a 100-foot tape measure and graph paper (1 square = 1 foot works well). Mark the house footprint, property lines, existing trees, fences, utility boxes, and structures. Photograph the yard from all four corners and from upstairs windows for a bird's-eye perspective.
Measure property boundaries and note setback distances
Mark existing features: trees, structures, utilities, slopes
Track sun and shade patterns throughout the day
Observe your yard at 9 AM, noon, and 3 PM to map full sun (6+ hours), partial shade (3-6 hours), and full shade (under 3 hours) zones. Sun patterns shift dramatically between summer and winter. Take photos at each time to reference during plant selection.
Test your soil type and pH level
A soil test kit from your county extension office costs $15-$25 and takes 2-3 weeks for results. It tells you soil type (clay, sand, loam), pH level (most plants prefer 6.0-7.0), and nutrient deficiencies. Amending soil before planting saves years of struggling plants.
Call 811 to mark underground utility lines before any digging
This free service marks gas, electric, water, sewer, and cable lines with colored paint within 2-3 business days. Hitting a gas line costs $5,000-$25,000 in repairs and puts you in legal liability. Call at least 5 business days before you plan to dig.
Drainage Assessment
Identify where water pools after heavy rain
Walk your yard during or immediately after a heavy rainstorm and mark standing water areas with flags or stakes. Water that sits for more than 24 hours after rain indicates a drainage problem. These areas need grading, a French drain, or a rain garden before you landscape over them.
Check for pooling near the foundation, in low spots, and along fences
Mark problem areas with stakes for reference
Check that the grade slopes away from your foundation
The ground should drop at least 6 inches over the first 10 feet from your foundation walls. Use a 4-foot level and a tape measure to check the slope. If the grade is flat or slopes toward the house, add topsoil to create proper drainage before planting beds against the foundation.
Plan drainage solutions for problem areas
French drains (gravel-filled trenches with perforated pipe) cost $10-$25 per linear foot and redirect water underground. Dry creek beds handle surface runoff and cost $5-$15 per linear foot. Rain gardens collect and absorb runoff in a planted depression — they cost $3-$5 per square foot.
Verify downspout extensions direct water at least 6 feet from the house
Downspouts dumping water next to the foundation are the most common cause of basement leaks and foundation settling. Extend them with solid pipe (not the flexible accordion type, which clogs) and direct them to a gravel splash pad or a drainage swale that carries water away from the house.
Hardscape Planning
Design patio, walkway, and sitting area locations
A functional patio needs at least 12x12 feet (144 square feet) to fit a table and 4 chairs with room to move. Add 25 square feet per additional seat you want. Place the patio where it gets afternoon shade in summer if possible. Walkways should be at least 36 inches wide for comfortable single-file walking.
Sketch patio and walkway locations on your site plan
Mark dimensions and calculate square footage
Choose hardscape materials and get pricing
Concrete pavers cost $3-$8 per square foot installed, natural stone costs $10-$25, and poured concrete costs $6-$12. Pavers are the easiest to repair since individual units can be replaced. Natural stone looks premium but requires more maintenance. Get samples and view them in your yard's light before committing.
Plan retaining walls for slopes greater than 3 feet
Retaining walls over 4 feet high typically require a structural engineer's design and a building permit. Walls under 4 feet can use interlocking concrete blocks ($10-$15 per face square foot) without a permit in most jurisdictions. A 3-foot-high wall needs a 2-foot-deep gravel footing for stability.
Install hardscape before planting
Always build patios, walkways, walls, and fences before planting beds and lawns. Heavy equipment and foot traffic during hardscape construction will crush newly planted areas. This order also lets you adjust bed shapes around the finished hardscape instead of guessing during construction.
Plant Selection and Layout
Choose native plants adapted to your climate zone
Native species need 50-70% less water than non-native ornamentals once established and rarely need fertilizer or pesticide treatment. Check your USDA Hardiness Zone (the map is available at planthardiness.ars.usda.gov). Your county extension office has a free list of recommended native plants for your region.
Look up your USDA Hardiness Zone
Match plants to your sun, soil, and moisture conditions
Plan for mature plant sizes, not nursery pot sizes
A 1-gallon shrub that is 12 inches tall may grow to 8 feet wide in 5 years. Check the mature width on the plant tag and space accordingly. Overcrowded plantings require constant pruning and promote disease. A bed that looks sparse at planting will fill in within 2-3 growing seasons.
Layer plants by height: trees, shrubs, perennials, groundcover
Place tallest plants at the back of borders or in the center of island beds. Put mid-size shrubs in front, then perennials, then groundcover or low edging plants at the front. This layering creates depth and ensures every plant gets sunlight. Leave 18-24 inches between the front edge and walkways.
Include plants with staggered bloom times for year-round interest
Plan for something in bloom or showing color in every season: spring bulbs, summer perennials, fall foliage, and winter evergreen structure. A garden with only spring bloomers looks bare for 9 months. Ornamental grasses add winter texture and movement when flowers are dormant.
Plant trees at least 15 feet from the house and 5 feet from fences
Roots spread 2-3 times the width of the canopy and can damage foundations, sewer lines, and fences. Large shade trees need 25-30 feet from the house. Check the mature canopy spread before planting — a tree that is 6 feet tall at the nursery may develop a 40-foot canopy in 15 years.
Irrigation System
Map irrigation zones based on plant water needs
Group plants with similar water requirements on the same zone. Lawns, perennial beds, and drought-tolerant areas should be separate zones with different run times. Most residential systems need 4-8 zones. Each zone should cover no more than 1,500 square feet for adequate water pressure.
Sketch zone boundaries on your site plan
Assign run times based on plant needs
Choose between sprinkler heads and drip irrigation
Spray heads cover lawn areas and lose 30-50% of water to evaporation and wind. Drip irrigation delivers water directly to plant roots with 90% efficiency. Use drip for beds and shrubs, rotary heads for lawns. A combined system with both is the most efficient design.
Install a smart irrigation controller with weather adjustment
Smart controllers adjust watering based on local weather data, saving 20-40% on water bills compared to fixed timers. They skip watering when rain is forecast and increase run time during heat waves. Most connect to your phone for remote control and monitoring.
Install the irrigation system before laying sod or mulch
Trenching for irrigation pipes disturbs 6-8 inches of soil across the yard. Install all mainlines and lateral lines first, then grade the soil, then plant and mulch. Running irrigation lines under an established lawn means tearing up turf that then needs to be relaid.
Budget and Phasing
Set a total landscaping budget based on your home's value
Industry guidance suggests spending 10-20% of your home's value on landscaping for the best return on investment. For a $400,000 home, that is $40,000-$80,000 for a full project. Going below 10% often results in a sparse look; above 20% rarely yields proportional value increase at resale.
Determine your total budget range
Allocate roughly 40% to hardscape and 60% to plants and irrigation
Get at least 3 quotes from landscaping contractors
Prices for identical designs can vary by 40-60% between contractors. Request itemized quotes that separate materials, labor, plants, and irrigation. Ask for a portfolio of completed projects similar in scope to yours. Verify licensing, insurance, and at least 3 references.
Create a phased installation plan if budget is limited
Phase 1 should include drainage, grading, and hardscape since these require heavy equipment. Phase 2 adds irrigation and planting beds. Phase 3 covers finishing touches like lighting, mulch, and decorative elements. Spreading the project over 2-3 seasons reduces the financial burden and lets you adjust the design as you live with each phase.
Plan outdoor lighting locations and run conduit during hardscape phase
Low-voltage landscape lighting costs $3,000-$8,000 installed for a typical yard with 15-25 fixtures. Running conduit during hardscape construction is almost free; adding it later means tearing up finished patios and walkways. Place uplights on specimen trees, path lights along walkways, and step lights on stairs.
Frequently Asked Questions
How much does professional landscaping cost for a backyard?
A basic backyard landscaping project (grading, sod or seed, foundation plantings, mulch beds, and a small patio) costs $5,000-$15,000 for an average-sized yard. Mid-range projects adding a hardscape patio ($15-$30 per sq ft), retaining walls, and an irrigation system run $15,000-$40,000. Full outdoor living spaces with a kitchen, fire pit, pergola, and custom planting design can reach $40,000-$100,000+ depending on materials and complexity.
When is the best time to plant trees and shrubs?
Fall (September-November) is the ideal planting season for trees and shrubs in most US climate zones — the still-warm soil promotes root growth while cooler air temperatures reduce transplant stress. Spring planting (March-May) is the second-best window, though newly planted trees need more frequent watering through the summer heat. Avoid planting during the peak of summer (July-August) when heat stress and water demand make establishment difficult, and winter planting in frozen ground is not possible in zones 6 and colder.
How do I reduce water usage in my landscaping?
Replace traditional turf grass with drought-tolerant native plants, ornamental grasses, and ground covers — a well-designed xeriscaped yard uses 50-75% less water than a conventional lawn. Drip irrigation delivers water directly to plant root zones with 90% efficiency versus 50-70% for conventional sprinklers, and costs $1-$3 per linear foot to install. Mulching plant beds with 2-3 inches of wood chips or bark reduces soil moisture evaporation by 25-50% and suppresses weed growth that competes with your plants for water.
Do I need a permit for backyard landscaping projects?
Fencing over 6 feet tall, retaining walls over 4 feet high, pergolas and covered structures, in-ground pools, and any project that changes drainage patterns or lot grading typically require a permit. Underground sprinkler systems tied to your home's plumbing need a plumbing permit in many jurisdictions, and electrical work for landscape lighting requires an electrical permit. Check your HOA covenants before starting any landscaping project — many HOAs require architectural review board approval for fencing, structures, and even significant planting changes visible from the street.