A spring maintenance checklist for your home covering HVAC service, gutter cleaning, exterior inspection, deck prep, lawn care startup, window washing, and pest prevention to keep your home in top shape.
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HVAC and Air Quality
Replace the HVAC air filter
Standard 1-inch filters should be replaced every 30-90 days. A MERV 8-11 filter ($5-$15) catches 80-95% of dust and allergens. Write the install date on the filter edge so you know when to swap it next.
Check the filter size printed on the current filter frame
Buy 3-4 filters at once to have replacements on hand
Schedule a professional AC tune-up before summer
A spring AC tune-up costs $75-$150 and catches refrigerant leaks, worn parts, and dirty coils before they cause a $300-$1,000 midsummer breakdown. Book in March or April—June appointments fill fast.
Clean supply and return air vents throughout the house
Remove vent covers and wash them in warm soapy water. Vacuum inside the vent opening 6-8 inches to remove dust buildup. Blocked vents reduce HVAC efficiency by 10-15% and increase energy bills.
Test the thermostat and switch from heat to cooling mode
Run the AC for 15-20 minutes and verify cold air comes from all vents. If some rooms are warm while others are cold, check that vents are open and unblocked by furniture. Temperature should drop 15-20 degrees from intake to output.
Gutters and Drainage
Clean all gutters and downspouts
Clogged gutters cause foundation damage, basement flooding, and fascia rot. Clean them twice a year—spring and fall. Hire a pro ($100-$250) if your roof is 2+ stories or steeply pitched.
Remove leaves, debris, and any standing water
Flush downspouts with a garden hose to confirm flow
Check that downspouts direct water at least 4 feet from the foundation
Add downspout extensions ($5-$10 each) if water dumps right at the foundation wall. Water pooling within 4 feet of the house causes 90% of basement moisture problems.
Inspect gutters for sagging, rust, or loose brackets
Gutter hangers loosen over time from ice and debris weight. Replace bent or missing hangers ($2-$4 each) and reseal leaky seams with gutter sealant ($5-$8 per tube). Sagging gutters overflow and damage siding.
Exterior Inspection
Walk the perimeter and inspect siding, trim, and paint
Look for cracked caulk, peeling paint, rotting wood, and gaps where siding meets trim or windows. A tube of exterior caulk ($5-$8) and a gallon of matching paint ($30-$40) fix most cosmetic issues before they become structural.
Recaulk around windows, doors, and any visible gaps
Touch up peeling paint on trim, sills, and siding
Inspect the roof from the ground with binoculars
Look for missing, cracked, or curling shingles and any flashing that has pulled away from chimneys or vents. Missing shingles after winter storms are the most common issue. A roof repair costs $150-$500 if caught early.
Check the foundation for new cracks
Hairline cracks under 1/8 inch are usually cosmetic. Cracks wider than 1/4 inch, horizontal cracks, or cracks that have grown since last year need a structural engineer evaluation ($300-$500).
Inspect driveways and walkways for cracks and heaving
Fill concrete cracks with concrete crack filler ($8-$12) before water seeps in and freezes next winter, making them worse. Cracks wider than 1/2 inch may need patching compound instead of filler.
Deck and Patio Prep
Inspect the deck for loose boards, popped nails, and rot
Push a screwdriver into suspect wood—if it sinks more than 1/4 inch, the board needs replacing. Check ledger board connections (where the deck meets the house) because this is where 90% of deck collapses begin.
Power wash the deck or patio surface
Use 1,500-2,000 PSI for wood decks (higher pressure splinters the wood) and 2,500-3,000 PSI for concrete patios. Rent a pressure washer for $50-$80 per day if you do not own one.
Apply deck sealant or stain if the water test fails
Sprinkle water on the deck—if it beads up, the sealant is still good. If it soaks in within 10 seconds, reseal. One gallon of deck stain covers 150-300 square feet and takes 24-48 hours to cure.
Lawn and Landscape
Rake dead grass and dethatch the lawn if thatch exceeds 1/2 inch
Thatch is the layer of dead grass between the green blades and soil. If it is thicker than 1/2 inch, it blocks water and nutrients. A dethatching rake ($25-$40) works for small lawns; rent a power dethatcher ($50-$75/day) for large ones.
Apply a spring fertilizer and pre-emergent weed preventer
Apply fertilizer when soil temperature reaches 55 degrees F (when lilacs start blooming). Pre-emergent weed killer must go down before soil hits 55 degrees to stop crabgrass. Timing is everything—too late and weeds are already growing.
Service the lawn mower (oil, blade, spark plug)
Change the oil, sharpen or replace the blade, and install a new spark plug ($3-$5) each spring. A sharp blade cuts cleanly while a dull blade tears grass, causing brown tips and disease. Sharpen the blade after every 25 hours of mowing.
Check sprinkler heads and irrigation lines for winter damage
Run each zone for 2-3 minutes and walk the yard looking for broken heads, misaligned spray, and dry spots. Replace cracked sprinkler heads ($3-$8 each) and adjust spray patterns so water hits the lawn, not the sidewalk.
Windows and Pest Prevention
Wash all exterior windows
Clean windows with a squeegee and a solution of 1 tablespoon dish soap plus 1 cup white vinegar per gallon of water. Wash on a cloudy day—direct sunlight dries the solution before you can squeegee, leaving streaks.
Clean window screens with soapy water and a soft brush
Inspect window seals and weatherstripping for gaps
Inspect and repair window and door screens
Small screen tears can be patched with a screen repair kit ($5-$8). For larger holes, a full screen rescreen costs $10-$25 per window at a hardware store. Intact screens keep mosquitoes and flies out all summer.
Seal entry points where pests could enter the house
Mice can squeeze through a 1/4-inch gap. Seal gaps around pipes, vents, and the foundation with steel wool and caulk. Spray the perimeter of the house with an outdoor insect barrier ($10-$15) to prevent ants and spiders.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the most important spring maintenance task for my home?
Inspecting and cleaning your roof, gutters, and downspouts is the single most impactful spring task — winter ice, wind, and debris cause damage that leads to water intrusion if left unaddressed. Clean gutters of leaves and debris, check for loose or missing shingles from winter storms, and ensure downspouts direct water at least 4-6 feet away from the foundation. A 30-minute roof inspection from ground level with binoculars can identify cracked flashing, lifted shingles, and moss growth that a professional roofer should evaluate.
When should I turn on my sprinkler system in spring?
Wait until nighttime temperatures consistently stay above 37°F for at least a week to avoid frozen pipes and cracked sprinkler heads. In most northern US states, this means mid-April to early May; southern states can safely open systems in March. Run each zone manually for 5 minutes while walking the yard to check for broken heads, misaligned spray patterns, and leaks at pipe connections that may have developed from winter freeze-thaw cycles.
How much does a professional spring HVAC tune-up cost?
A spring AC tune-up runs $80-$150 for a single system and includes condenser coil cleaning, refrigerant pressure check, electrical connection inspection, and thermostat calibration. Scheduling before May saves money and guarantees availability — once summer heat arrives, HVAC companies charge emergency rates ($150-$300) and may have 1-2 week wait times. An annual tune-up extends your HVAC system's life by 3-5 years and maintains efficiency, which translates to 15-20% lower cooling costs compared to a neglected system.
What exterior maintenance should I do in spring?
Power wash siding, walkways, driveways, and the deck or patio — winter grime, mold, and salt deposits degrade surfaces if left through summer. Inspect the foundation perimeter for new cracks wider than 1/8 inch, settling, or water pooling near the base. Touch up exterior paint or stain on trim, doors, and deck boards where winter weather caused peeling or flaking, and re-caulk gaps around windows and doors where old caulk has cracked or pulled away.