Get your home ready for winter with this cold-weather preparation checklist. Covers insulation checks, pipe freeze prevention, emergency supplies, heating system tests, ice dam prevention, snow removal plans, and thermostat settings.
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Insulation Check
Measure attic insulation depth and add more if under 12 inches
The Department of Energy recommends R-38 to R-60 insulation in attics (10-16 inches of fiberglass batts depending on your climate zone). Adding insulation costs $1-$2 per square foot for blown-in cellulose and saves 10-20% on heating bills.
Check insulation depth in at least 3 spots across the attic
Look for gaps around pipes, wires, and recessed lights
Insulate the basement rim joist and crawl space walls
The rim joist (where the floor framing meets the foundation wall) is the biggest air leak in most homes. Sealing and insulating this area with rigid foam and caulk costs $100-$200 in materials and blocks 30-40% of basement cold air infiltration.
Add insulation to the attic hatch or pull-down stairs
An uninsulated attic hatch loses as much heat as leaving a 2-foot hole in your ceiling. An attic stairway insulation cover ($30-$50) presses against the opening and reduces heat loss through the hatch by 75-80%.
Check and seal ductwork in unconditioned spaces
Leaky ducts in attics and crawl spaces waste 20-30% of heated air before it reaches your rooms. Seal joints with metal tape or duct mastic ($8-$12 per tub)—never use standard cloth duct tape, which dries out and peels within 1-2 years.
Pipe Freeze Prevention
Insulate exposed pipes in the basement, crawl space, and garage
Foam pipe insulation costs $0.50-$1.50 per 6-foot section and slips over pipes in seconds. Insulate all pipes in unheated spaces—water freezes when pipe temperature drops below 20 degrees F, and a burst pipe causes $5,000-$70,000 in water damage.
Wrap hot and cold water pipes in the basement and crawl space
Insulate pipes that run through exterior walls or near vents
Know how to drip faucets during extreme cold snaps
When temperatures drop below 10 degrees F for more than 4 hours, open both hot and cold faucets on exterior walls to a pencil-thin stream. Moving water freezes at a lower temperature than standing water. This costs about $0.05 per faucet per night on your water bill.
Open cabinet doors under sinks on exterior walls
Kitchen and bathroom sinks on exterior walls are the most freeze-prone pipes in the house. Opening the cabinet doors lets warm room air circulate around the pipes. This simple step prevents most residential pipe freezes.
Locate the main water shutoff valve and make sure it works
If a pipe does burst, you need to shut off the water supply in under 60 seconds to minimize damage. Turn the main valve off and on once to confirm it is not seized. A stuck valve during a burst pipe turns a $500 repair into a $10,000 flood.
Emergency Kit and Supplies
Assemble a winter power outage kit
Winter power outages last 1-3 days on average. Stock 1 gallon of water per person per day, non-perishable food for 3 days, flashlights, batteries, a battery-powered radio, and a manual can opener. Keep it all in one bin.
Stock 3 days of water (1 gallon per person per day)
Include flashlights, extra batteries, and a first aid kit
Buy extra blankets or a backup heat source
A propane indoor-safe heater ($100-$150) runs 4-6 hours on one tank and heats a single room during outages. Never use outdoor propane heaters, charcoal grills, or gas ovens for indoor heat—carbon monoxide kills within hours in a sealed room.
Charge portable power banks and keep a car charger ready
A 20,000 mAh power bank ($25-$35) charges a phone 4-5 times. Keep it charged to 80% throughout winter. A car phone charger ($10-$15) provides unlimited power as long as you have gasoline.
Stock prescription medications for 7 days ahead
Winter storms can close pharmacies and block roads for days. Refill prescriptions when you have 7 days of supply left instead of waiting until you are down to 1-2 days. Most insurance plans allow refills at 75% through the supply.
Heating System Test
Run the furnace for 1 hour and check every vent
Walk through the house and hold your hand over each vent to confirm warm air is flowing. Cold vents mean a closed damper, blocked duct, or failing blower motor. The difference between the coldest and warmest rooms should be under 4 degrees.
Replace the furnace filter with a fresh one
A dirty filter makes the furnace work 15-20% harder, increasing your gas bill by $10-$30 per month. Standard 1-inch filters need replacing every 30-90 days during heavy use. Write the install date on the filter frame.
Test each space heater and check for frayed cords
Space heaters cause 1,700 house fires per year. Keep them 3 feet from curtains, furniture, and bedding. Never plug a space heater into a power strip or extension cord—the draw (1,500 watts) overloads most strips and causes electrical fires.
Reverse ceiling fans to clockwise rotation
Most ceiling fans have a switch on the motor housing to reverse direction. Running clockwise at low speed pushes warm air that collects at the ceiling back down into the room. This can reduce heating costs by 10-15% in rooms with 8-foot or higher ceilings.
Ice Dam and Roof Prevention
Seal attic air leaks around light fixtures, pipes, and chimneys
Warm air leaking into the attic melts snow on the roof, which refreezes at the eaves and creates ice dams. Sealing attic bypasses with caulk and foam around wires, pipes, and fixtures is the single best way to prevent ice dams.
Seal around attic electrical boxes and wire penetrations
Check and seal around the chimney chase and plumbing stack
Ensure attic ventilation is unblocked
Soffit vents and ridge vents keep the attic cold, which prevents snow from melting unevenly. Check that insulation is not blocking soffit vents—install baffles ($1-$2 each) between rafters to maintain 1-2 inches of airflow.
Buy a roof rake for heavy snowfall areas
A roof rake ($30-$50) lets you pull snow off the first 3-4 feet of roof from the ground after heavy storms. Remove snow within 48 hours of a storm when accumulation exceeds 6 inches. Never climb on an icy roof.
Snow Removal and Thermostat
Confirm your snow removal plan (DIY or service)
A seasonal snow removal contract costs $200-$600 depending on driveway size and snowfall frequency. DIY requires a snow blower or shovel, ice melt, and the ability to clear snow within 12-24 hours of a storm to avoid city fines in many areas.
Mark driveway edges with reflective stakes so plows avoid the lawn
Stock 50-100 pounds of ice melt before the first storm
Test and service the snow blower before the first storm
Change the oil, check the auger belt, and test-start the engine in October. Old gasoline gums up carburetors—add fuel stabilizer if gas has been sitting more than 30 days. Replacing a carburetor costs $80-$150 at a repair shop.
Program the thermostat for winter settings
Set 68 degrees F when home and 60-62 degrees F when sleeping or away. Each degree you lower the thermostat saves 1-3% on heating costs. Never set below 55 degrees F—this is the minimum to prevent interior pipe freezing.
Set the vacation hold temperature if traveling
If leaving for more than 2 days in winter, set the thermostat to 58-60 degrees F. Open cabinet doors under sinks, and ask a neighbor to check the house every 2-3 days. A frozen pipe that bursts while you are away can flood the entire house.
Frequently Asked Questions
At what temperature should I keep my house to prevent pipes from freezing?
Keep your thermostat at 55°F or above at all times, even when you're away or sleeping — this is the minimum temperature that prevents pipes in exterior walls and unheated spaces from freezing. During extreme cold snaps (below 0°F), open cabinet doors under kitchen and bathroom sinks to allow warm air to reach pipes against exterior walls. Letting faucets drip at a slow trickle during sub-zero nights costs about $0.10-$0.20 in water per faucet but prevents pipe bursts that average $5,000-$15,000 in water damage repairs.
How do I prevent ice dams on my roof?
Ice dams form when heat escaping from the attic melts snow on the upper roof, which refreezes at the colder eave edge and blocks drainage. The permanent fix is proper attic insulation (R-49 minimum) and ventilation (balanced soffit and ridge vents) that keep the roof deck cold and prevent snowmelt. As a temporary measure, fill pantyhose with calcium chloride ice melt and lay them perpendicular to the ice dam to create drainage channels — never use rock salt, which damages shingles and gutters.
Should I run my ceiling fans in winter?
Running ceiling fans clockwise on low speed in winter pushes warm air pooled at the ceiling down along the walls and back to floor level without creating a cooling breeze. This simple switch (most fans have a direction toggle on the motor housing) can reduce heating costs by 10-15% in rooms with ceilings 8 feet or higher where warm air stratifies. In rooms with cathedral or vaulted ceilings, the effect is even more pronounced since the temperature difference between floor and ceiling can exceed 10°F.
When should I get my chimney cleaned before winter?
Schedule chimney cleaning and inspection in September or October, before the heating season begins and before chimney sweeps enter their peak booking period. The National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) recommends annual chimney inspection and cleaning when creosote buildup exceeds 1/8 inch — a standard cleaning costs $150-$300. Creosote is the leading cause of chimney fires (25,000+ per year in the US), and a Level 1 inspection checks for structural integrity, blockages, and excessive creosote in about 45-60 minutes.