Climb Mount Aconcagua: Essential Expedition Preparation
Successfully summit the highest peak in the Southern and Western Hemispheres. This checklist covers logistics, high-altitude gear, and physical training requirements for the 6,961-meter peak.
Book for late December through January for the most stable weather. Avoid November or March unless you are prepared for extreme cold and high winds that frequently exceed 100km/h.
Secure the Aconcagua Provincial Park permit
Apply in person at the Subsecretaria de Turismo in Mendoza. Prices fluctuate based on the season but expect to pay $600 to $1,000 USD via cash or local bank deposit; credit cards are rarely accepted.
Book international flights to Mendoza (MDZ)
Arrange airport transfers to downtown Mendoza
Purchase high-altitude rescue insurance
Verify the policy covers helicopter evacuation up to 7,000 meters. Many standard travel policies cap coverage at 3,000 or 5,000 meters, which is useless on Aconcagua.
Contract a logistics provider for mule transport
Hire a service to carry your 60kg of gear from the trailhead to Base Camp (Plaza de Mulas or Plaza Argentina). Doing this 'double carry' yourself significantly increases fatigue and decreases summit success rates.
Physical Training and Health
Execute a 6-month progressive training plan
Focus on low-intensity cardio for 4-6 hours weekly to build aerobic capacity. Transition to weighted pack hikes 3 months before departure, reaching 25kg loads on steep terrain.
Perform a stress test and medical check-up
Consult a doctor about high-altitude contraindications. Obtain prescriptions for Acetazolamide (Diamox) and Dexamethasone for emergency altitude sickness management.
Complete all dental work 2 months before departure
Fix any cavities or loose fillings early. Trapped air under dental work can expand at high altitudes, causing debilitating pain that will end your expedition.
Practice rest-step and pressure breathing techniques
Rest-step for energy conservation
Pressure breathing for oxygen saturation
Expedition Gear and Equipment
Acquire triple or double mountaineering boots
Ensure boots are rated for -30°C. Renting in Mendoza is possible for $200-$300, but buying 4 months early allows you to break them in and prevent blisters.
Assemble a four-layer upper body system
Synthetic or wool base layers
Mid-weight fleece or softshell
Hard shell waterproof jacket
Heavy 800-fill down parka with hood
Pack a -30°C (-20°F) rated sleeping bag
Choose down insulation for weight efficiency. Use a waterproof compression sack to keep it dry during mule transport and high-camp moves.
Select technical climbing hardware
12-point steel crampons
Straight-shaft ice axe (60-70cm)
Adjustable trekking poles with snow baskets
Prepare a 20-day high-calorie food supply
Plan for 4,000 calories per day. Include 'comfort foods' like chocolate or dried fruit, as appetite disappears above 5,000 meters and freeze-dried meals often become unpalatable.
Bring UV 4 category glacier glasses
Standard sunglasses are insufficient for the high albedo of snow at 6,000m. Failure to use side-shielded Category 4 lenses will result in snow blindness within hours.
On-Mountain Strategy and Safety
Adopt a 'climb high, sleep low' schedule
Plan for at least 18-20 days on the mountain. Spend 3 nights at Base Camp (3,400m-4,300m) before moving gear to higher camps to allow for red blood cell production.
Establish a mandatory turnaround time
Set 2:00 PM as the absolute latest time to turn back from the summit, regardless of how close you are. Descending the Canaleta in the dark or during late-afternoon storms is a leading cause of fatalities.
Monitor for Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) symptoms
Check for persistent headaches or nausea
Watch for ataxia (loss of balance)
Listen for crackling lung sounds (HAPE)
Manage human waste according to park rules
Use the numbered waste bags provided at the park entrance. You must return these bags at the end of the climb or face a $500+ fine and a ban from the park.
Carry 4 liters of water for summit day
Use wide-mouth bottles and store them upside down in insulated parkas. Hydration bladder tubes will freeze solid at -20°C, even with insulated sleeves.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I climb Aconcagua without a guide?
Yes, independent climbing is permitted for experienced mountaineers. However, you must still register with the park office in Mendoza and prove you have the required rescue insurance. Non-guided climbers are responsible for their own navigation, waste removal, and emergency communications.
How much does a full Aconcagua expedition cost?
A DIY expedition costs between $2,500 and $4,000 including permits, flights, and mule services. Fully guided expeditions range from $5,000 to $10,000. Price variations depend largely on the level of base camp support and the ratio of guides to climbers.
Is technical climbing experience required for the Normal Route?
The Normal Route is a 'non-technical' walk-up, meaning you do not need ropes or vertical ice climbing skills. However, you must be proficient in using crampons and an ice axe for self-arrest on 30-degree frozen scree or snow slopes, especially in the Canaleta section.
What is the success rate for reaching the summit?
The historical success rate is approximately 30-40%. Failure is most commonly caused by weather (high winds), poor acclimatization leading to altitude sickness, and inadequate physical conditioning.