A complete guide to Lyon, France, the gastronomic capital of the world. Covers the UNESCO-listed Old Town, Renaissance traboules, Roman ruins on Fourviere Hill, vibrant food markets, and the best bouchons for traditional Lyonnaise cuisine.
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Vieux Lyon (Old Town)
Walk through the traboules (secret passageways)
Lyon's traboules are covered passageways running through buildings, connecting parallel streets. Originally used by silk workers and later by the French Resistance. Over 40 are open to the public in Vieux Lyon and Croix-Rousse. Push open the heavy doors (look for brass plaques) and walk quietly through. The Cour des Loges and the long traboule at 54 Rue Saint-Jean are must-sees.
Find the traboule at 54 Rue Saint-Jean
Explore the Cour des Loges courtyard
Explore the Renaissance buildings on Rue Saint-Jean
The main street of Vieux Lyon is lined with 15th and 16th-century buildings featuring ornate spiral staircases, carved facades, and hidden courtyards. Look up at the windows and doorways for fine stonework details. The street also has chocolate shops, creperies, and souvenir stores. Free to explore at any time.
Visit the Cathedral of Saint-Jean-Baptiste
Lyon's 12th-century Gothic cathedral sits at the heart of Vieux Lyon. The astronomical clock from the 14th century still works and performs an automated show at noon, 2 PM, 3 PM, and 4 PM. The stained glass windows and Bourbon Chapel are highlights. Free entry, closed during services.
Visit the Gadagne Museums
Two museums in one Renaissance building: the Museum of the History of Lyon and the Puppet Museum (Lyon is the birthplace of Guignol, the famous puppet character). The rooftop garden has views over Vieux Lyon. Admission EUR 8 for both museums combined.
Fourviere Hill and Roman Lyon
Visit the Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourviere
This ornate 19th-century basilica crowns the hill above the city with an interior dripping in gold mosaics, marble, and stained glass. The rooftop terrace (EUR 8 guided tour) offers the best panoramic views of Lyon. The basilica itself is free to enter. Reachable by funicular from Vieux Lyon metro station.
Take the funicular up from Vieux Lyon
See the golden mosaics inside
Book the rooftop terrace tour for views
Explore the Gallo-Roman Museum and ancient theaters
Two well-preserved Roman theaters (the oldest in France, from 15 BC) sit on the hillside with free access. The adjacent Gallo-Roman Museum (EUR 7, free on Thursdays) is built into the hillside with excellent exhibits on Roman Lugdunum. In summer, the Nuits de Fourviere festival hosts concerts in the ancient theater.
Walk through the Roman amphitheaters
Visit the Gallo-Roman Museum
Enjoy the panoramic view from the Fourviere esplanade
The viewing terrace next to the basilica offers a sweeping vista over Lyon's two rivers, the Presqu'ile peninsula, and on clear days, the Alps including Mont Blanc. Free access at any time. Sunset is particularly stunning. A coin-operated telescope helps identify landmarks.
Presqu'ile (City Center)
Walk across Place Bellecour
One of the largest open squares in Europe, dominated by an equestrian statue of Louis XIV. The tourist office here provides free city maps and traboule guides. The square connects Vieux Lyon to the shopping districts. In December, it hosts part of the famous Festival of Lights.
Browse the shops on Rue de la Republique
Lyon's main shopping street runs through the heart of the Presqu'ile peninsula. Department stores, French chains, and international brands line both sides. The side streets (especially Rue Merciere for restaurants and Rue de Brest for independent shops) are more interesting for browsing.
Visit Place des Terreaux and the Museum of Fine Arts
Place des Terreaux features a fountain by Bartholdi (who designed the Statue of Liberty) and the imposing Hotel de Ville. The Museum of Fine Arts (EUR 8, free first Friday of month) is housed in a former Benedictine convent and ranks among the best art museums in France outside Paris.
See the Bartholdi fountain
Visit the Museum of Fine Arts
Explore the Confluence district
Where the Rhone and Saone rivers meet, this former industrial area has been transformed into a modern district with bold architecture, the Confluence Museum (EUR 12), and a large shopping center. The museum, in a striking deconstructivist building, covers science and society. Take tram T1 from Perrache station.
Food and Gastronomy
Eat at a traditional bouchon lyonnais
Bouchons are Lyon's traditional bistros serving hearty Lyonnaise cuisine. Look for the official Bouchon Lyonnais certification plaque. Classics include quenelles (pike dumpling in cream sauce), tablier de sapeur (breaded tripe), and salade lyonnaise. Expect to pay EUR 20-30 for a three-course lunch menu. Daniel et Denise, Le Musee, and Chez Paul are well-regarded.
Try quenelles de brochet (pike dumplings)
Order the prix fixe lunch menu for the best value
Visit Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse
Lyon's legendary indoor food market, named after the city's most famous chef. Over 50 vendors sell cheese, charcuterie, seafood, pastries, and wine. Many have small counters for eating on-site. Prices are premium but the quality matches. Open Tuesday through Sunday. Saturday mornings are busiest but most atmospheric.
Take a food tour of the Presqu'ile
Several companies run walking food tours (EUR 60-80, 3-4 hours) through Lyon's food districts, with tastings at bouchons, cheese shops, chocolate makers, and the Halles. A Lyon Food Tour or Taste of Lyon tour covers 7-10 stops. Book in advance as they fill up, especially on weekends.
Try Lyonnaise pastry and chocolate
Voisin's Coussin de Lyon (green marzipan pillow filled with chocolate ganache) is the city's signature confection. Praluline, a pink praline brioche from Pralus, is another must-try. Bernachon, a bean-to-bar chocolatier since 1953, is considered one of the finest in France. Their President's Cake is legendary.
Croix-Rousse and Art
Explore the Croix-Rousse silk workers district
The hilltop neighborhood of Croix-Rousse was the center of Lyon's silk industry. The tall buildings with high ceilings were designed to house Jacquard looms. Today it's a bohemian quarter with art studios, organic markets, and independent shops. The Saturday morning market on Boulevard de la Croix-Rousse is one of the best in France.
Walk the traboules of Croix-Rousse
Visit the Saturday morning market
See the Fresque des Lyonnais mural
A massive trompe-l'oeil mural at the corner of Quai Saint-Vincent and Rue de la Martiniere, depicting 30 famous Lyonnais figures across eight stories. Characters include the Little Prince (Saint-Exupery was born in Lyon), the Lumiere brothers, and Paul Bocuse. Free to view at any time.
Visit the Maison des Canuts (Silk Museum)
A small museum in Croix-Rousse demonstrating the history of Lyon's silk industry, with live demonstrations of Jacquard loom weaving. Tours last about an hour and run several times daily. Admission EUR 7. The museum shop sells locally woven silk products.
Walk along the banks of the Rhone and Saone
Both rivers have beautifully landscaped walking and cycling paths. The Rhone's left bank (Berges du Rhone) is more modern with park spaces and floating bars (peniches). The Saone's banks offer views of Vieux Lyon and Fourviere. The stretch between Passerelle du College and Pont de la Guillotiere is particularly scenic at golden hour.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why is Lyon considered the food capital of France?
Lyon sits at the crossroads of France's finest agricultural regions: Bresse poultry, Charolais beef, Beaujolais and Rhone Valley wines, and Alpine cheeses. The tradition of mere lyonnaises (women cooks) established bouchon cuisine. Paul Bocuse, based in Lyon, helped define modern French cooking. The city has more restaurants per capita than almost any other French city.
How many days do I need in Lyon?
Three to four days allows you to explore Vieux Lyon, Fourviere, Croix-Rousse, the food scene, and at least one museum at a relaxed pace. Two days covers the highlights but leaves little time for lingering over meals, which is half the point of visiting Lyon. Add a day for Beaujolais wine country (30 minutes north by car).
When is the best time to visit Lyon?
May through June and September offer warm weather without summer heat. The Festival of Lights (Fete des Lumieres) in early December transforms the city with spectacular light installations and is Lyon's biggest annual event. Summer (July-August) can be hot (30°C+) and many locals leave the city. Spring is ideal for outdoor dining.
Is Lyon expensive compared to Paris?
Lyon is noticeably cheaper than Paris. Hotels cost 20-30% less, restaurant meals are more affordable, and a three-course bouchon lunch menu runs EUR 20-30 compared to similar Parisian prices of EUR 35-50. Public transport is efficient and cheaper. The city is also more compact, so you spend less time and money getting around.