A complete guide to Portland, Oregon, covering the independent food cart pods, world-class bookstores, craft beer and coffee culture, quirky neighborhoods, and the stunning natural beauty of the Pacific Northwest surrounding the city.
The largest independent bookstore in the world, occupying an entire city block with over a million books across nine color-coded rooms. New and used books shelved together. The staff picks are excellent. You could spend hours here. Free map available at the info desk. Located on Burnside Street. Open daily 10 AM to 9 PM. The rare book room on the top floor is worth seeing.
Grab a free store map and explore
Visit the Rare Book Room
Visit the Portland Art Museum
The oldest art museum on the West Coast, with strong collections of Native American art, Northwest art, and Asian art. The Center for Contemporary Native Art is a highlight. Admission USD 20, free for under-17s. Free on the first Thursday of each month (5-8 PM). The adjacent Northwest Film Center screens independent and classic films.
Explore the Pearl District
A former warehouse district turned into Portland's most upscale neighborhood, with art galleries, restaurants, boutiques, and Jamison Square (with a fountain that kids love). First Thursday Art Walk (free, monthly) opens dozens of galleries. The Eco Trust building, Powell's Books, and the Brewery Blocks anchor the district. Very walkable with excellent dining options.
Walk across the bridges and waterfront
Portland's 12 bridges over the Willamette River are a defining feature. The Tilikum Crossing (transit, bikes, and pedestrians only) and the Hawthorne Bridge offer the best views. Tom McCall Waterfront Park runs along the west bank with a Saturday Market (March-December) that is Portland's largest outdoor arts and crafts market. The Eastbank Esplanade on the opposite shore has a floating walkway.
Neighborhoods
Explore Hawthorne and Division Streets
The Hawthorne district is Portland's bohemian heart, with vintage shops, record stores (Everyday Music, Music Millennium), and independent restaurants. Division Street (parallel, one block south) has emerged as a dining destination with Pok Pok (Thai street food), Ava Gene's (Italian), and Langbaan (Thai tasting menu). Both streets are bikeable and connected by numerous cross streets.
Visit Alberta Street Arts District
A vibrant Northeast Portland street with galleries, restaurants, cafes, and shops reflecting the neighborhood's diverse community. Last Thursday on Alberta (May-October, 6-9 PM) is a free street festival with art, music, and food. Pine State Biscuits, Salt and Straw ice cream, and Bollywood Theater are popular stops. The Guardino Gallery and Alberta Rose Theatre anchor the cultural scene.
Explore Mississippi Avenue
A 10-block stretch of independent shops, restaurants, and bars in North Portland. The ReBuilding Center (salvaged building materials), Mississippi Records (vinyl shop), and Stormbreaker Brewing are highlights. The food carts at Mississippi Marketplace complement the sit-down restaurants. Less touristy than Hawthorne with a strong neighborhood community feel.
Discover the quirky side of Portland
The Voodoo Doughnut (open 24/7, unusual flavors), the Witch's Castle in Forest Park (a ruined ranger station), the Freakybuttrue Peculiarium (free museum of the weird), and the International Rose Test Garden (free, 10,000+ rose bushes) all showcase Portland's embrace of the unusual. The city's unofficial motto, Keep Portland Weird, is earned.
Food and Drink
Eat at food cart pods
Portland pioneered the food cart movement, with clusters (pods) of carts serving global cuisines from converted trucks and trailers. Cartopia, Hawthorne Asylum, and Portland Mercado (Latin American focus) are popular pods. Cuisines range from Ethiopian to Filipino to gourmet grilled cheese. Most items cost USD 8-15. The pods are outdoor dining with communal seating and fire pits. Open rain or shine.
Visit a food cart pod for lunch
Try cuisines from multiple carts
Experience Portland's craft coffee culture
Portland rivals Seattle for coffee quality. Stumptown, Heart, Coava, and Proud Mary are among the best roasters, with multiple locations. Third-wave coffee culture is the standard here, not the exception. Pourover, cold brew, and single-origin espresso are everywhere. A quality coffee costs USD 4-7. The density of excellent coffee shops per block is higher than almost any US city.
Tour Portland's craft breweries
Portland has more breweries per capita than any other city in the world (70+ within city limits). Breakside, Great Notion, Culmination, and Wayfinder are current favorites. Many breweries have family-friendly taprooms with food. Brewery bus tours (USD 70-90) visit 3-4 spots with tastings. The central eastside has the densest cluster. A pint costs USD 6-8.
Eat at Portland's innovative restaurants
Portland punches far above its weight in dining. Canard (wine bar with killer fries), Lardo (gourmet sandwiches), Screen Door (Southern-inspired brunch with a legendary line), and Pok Pok (Thai) represent the range. The city is also one of the best for vegetarian and vegan food. Reservations are recommended at popular spots but many operate walk-in only.
Nature and Day Trips
Hike in Forest Park
One of the largest urban forests in the US, with over 80 miles of trails within the city limits. The Wildwood Trail is the main path, running 30 miles through old-growth trees. The Pittock Mansion (USD 12, a French Renaissance chateau at the top of the park) has panoramic views of the city and Mount Hood. Leif Erikson Drive is a popular running and biking path. Free access year-round.
Hike the Wildwood Trail
Visit Pittock Mansion for city views
Visit the International Rose Test Garden
Over 10,000 rose bushes representing 610 varieties, with Mount Hood visible in the background on clear days. The best blooms are in June but roses flower from May through October. Free entry. Located in Washington Park, adjacent to the Japanese Garden (USD 19, one of the most authentic outside Japan). Both are accessible by light rail.
Day trip to the Columbia River Gorge and Multnomah Falls
Multnomah Falls (189 meters) is the tallest waterfall in Oregon and just 30 minutes east of Portland. The Gorge has dozens of waterfalls along the Historic Columbia River Highway. The Eagle Creek Trail (when open) is one of the most scenic hikes in the Pacific Northwest. The town of Hood River (60 minutes) is a windsurfing and craft beer destination. A car is needed for the full Gorge experience.
Visit Multnomah Falls
Drive the Historic Columbia River Highway
Day trip to the Oregon Coast
Cannon Beach (Haystack Rock) is 90 minutes west and one of the most photographed beaches on the Pacific Coast. Astoria (from The Goonies) and Tillamook (cheese factory tours, free samples) make good stops. The Oregon Coast is rugged and dramatic, with cliffs, tide pools, and sea stacks. Water temperatures are cold (10-13°C) but beach walking and tidepooling are excellent year-round.
Frequently Asked Questions
How many days do I need in Portland?
Three to four days covers the main neighborhoods, food scene, breweries, and at least one nature excursion. Two days works for the highlights but misses the neighborhood exploration that makes Portland special. Add a day for the Columbia River Gorge or Oregon Coast. A week lets you fully appreciate the food, beer, coffee, and natural surroundings.
Does it really rain a lot in Portland?
Portland gets frequent light rain from October through May, but less total rainfall than many East Coast cities. Summer (June-September) is dry and gorgeous, with temperatures of 22-30°C. Portlanders do not use umbrellas (a dead giveaway for tourists). Bring a waterproof jacket and embrace the drizzle. The rain is what keeps everything so green.
Is Portland bikeable?
Extremely. Portland consistently ranks as one of the most bike-friendly cities in the US, with extensive bike lanes, bike-friendly bridges, and a culture that prioritizes cycling. Biketown (Nike-sponsored bike share, USD 0.05 per minute) has stations throughout the city. Most neighborhoods are flat. Many restaurants have bike parking. Biking is genuinely the best way to explore Portland's neighborhoods.
Do I need a car in Portland?
For the city, no. The MAX light rail, buses, and streetcar cover most tourist areas. Biking and walking are excellent for neighborhoods. For day trips (Columbia River Gorge, Oregon Coast, Mount Hood), a car is necessary as public transit options are limited. Ride-sharing works within the city. The airport is connected to downtown by light rail (40 minutes, USD 2.50).