A complete guide to Italy's Amalfi Coast, covering the cliffside towns of Positano, Amalfi, and Ravello, dramatic coastal drives, hidden beaches, the Path of the Gods hike, and the best of southern Italian food and limoncello. Includes practical tips for getting around this stunning UNESCO World Heritage coastline.
Positano's pastel buildings tumble down steep cliffs to the beach. The walk from the main road to the beach takes about 15-20 minutes down steep staircases. Wear comfortable shoes as you will climb these steps repeatedly. The views around every corner are spectacular. Shops selling the famous Positano linen clothing line the route.
Browse the boutiques on the walking streets
See the Church of Santa Maria Assunta and its majolica dome
Relax on Spiaggia Grande beach
Positano's main beach is a dramatic crescent of grey sand backed by the colorful village. Free public areas are available but limited. Beach clubs charge EUR 20-30 for two sunbeds and an umbrella. The water is crystal clear and boats bob in the bay. The beach is most enjoyable before 11 AM when day-trippers arrive.
Take a boat to the hidden Fornillo Beach
A quieter alternative to Spiaggia Grande, reachable by a 10-minute walk along a cliffside path west of town or by water taxi. Smaller, less crowded, and more local-feeling. A couple of beach restaurants serve lunch. The pebbly beach has both free and paid sections. The path from Positano passes a medieval watchtower.
Watch sunset from a terrace bar
Franco's Bar at Le Sirenuse hotel is the most famous (and expensive) sunset spot. Music on the Rocks (built into a cave at the beach) offers a more casual atmosphere. Many restaurants along the walking streets have terraces with sunset views. Positano faces west, making sunsets here among the best on the coast.
Amalfi Town
Visit the Cathedral of St. Andrew (Duomo di Amalfi)
A stunning 9th-century cathedral at the top of a grand staircase, with a striped Arab-Norman facade and a Byzantine Cloister of Paradise. The crypt houses the relics of St. Andrew. Admission EUR 3 (includes cloister and crypt). The Piazza del Duomo at the base of the stairs is the heart of town life.
Climb the staircase to the cathedral
Visit the Cloister of Paradise
Explore the Paper Museum (Museo della Carta)
Amalfi was once a major producer of handmade paper, and this museum in a 13th-century paper mill shows the original machinery still in working condition. Demonstrations of traditional paper-making run throughout the day. Admission EUR 4.50. The museum is a 5-minute walk from the main square along the Valle dei Mulini.
Walk the Valle dei Mulini (Valley of the Mills)
A narrow valley behind Amalfi town with the ruins of medieval paper mills, partly overgrown by vegetation. The abandoned mills create an atmospheric, almost jungle-like scene. The path is short and free to walk. The Paper Museum sits at the entrance to the valley. A brief but memorable detour from the town center.
Shop for limoncello and ceramics
Amalfi Coast lemons are enormous Sfusato Amalfitano variety, used to make the region's famous limoncello. Many shops offer free tastings. Hand-painted Vietri ceramics are the other signature souvenir. For better prices and selection, shop in Amalfi town or Vietri sul Mare rather than Positano. A bottle of quality limoncello costs EUR 8-15.
Ravello
Visit Villa Rufolo and gardens
A 13th-century villa perched 350 meters above the sea, with terraced gardens offering one of the most famous views on the coast. Wagner was inspired to compose Parsifal here. The summer Ravello Festival hosts concerts on a stage built over the cliff edge. Admission EUR 10. The gardens are especially beautiful in spring with flowering wisteria and roses.
See the Terrace of Infinity gardens
Check for Ravello Festival concert dates
Explore Villa Cimbrone and its Terrace of Infinity
A 10-minute walk from the center of Ravello leads to this villa with what Gore Vidal called the most beautiful view in the world. The Terrace of Infinity is lined with marble busts overlooking a sheer drop to the sea. Admission EUR 10. Less crowded in the morning. The gardens also include a cloister, temples, and grottoes.
Walk around Ravello's historic center
This hilltop town above Amalfi is quieter and more refined than the coastal villages below. The Piazza del Duomo has an 11th-century cathedral (free entry) with fine bronze doors and a museum of religious art. Small artisan shops sell ceramics and linen. The elevated position gives Ravello a cooler temperature in summer.
Hiking and Nature
Hike the Path of the Gods (Sentiero degli Dei)
The most famous hike on the Amalfi Coast, a 7.8 km trail running high above the coastline from Agerola (Bomerano) to Nocelle (above Positano). The views are extraordinary, passing through Mediterranean scrubland with the sea 500 meters below. Takes 3-4 hours one way. Start from Bomerano (bus from Amalfi) for mostly downhill hiking. Not suitable for those with vertigo.
Take the SITA bus to Bomerano trailhead
Descend the 1,700 steps from Nocelle to Positano
Visit the Grotta dello Smeraldo (Emerald Grotto)
A sea cave near Conca dei Marini where sunlight filters through an underwater opening, turning the water an ethereal emerald green. Accessible by boat from Amalfi (EUR 10) or by elevator and stairs from the road above. The 15-minute boat tour inside the cave costs EUR 5. Best visited when the sun is high for the strongest color effect.
Take a boat tour along the coast
Private and group boat tours run from all major towns, offering the best perspective of the dramatic coastline. Half-day tours (4-6 hours) typically visit sea caves, hidden beaches, and Li Galli islands. Group tours cost EUR 40-60 per person, private boats EUR 300-600. Swimming stops are usually included. Book directly at harbor kiosks for the best prices.
Swim at Duoglio Beach near Amalfi
A less crowded beach east of Amalfi town, reached by about 400 steps down from the main road. The clear water and relative quietness make the climb worthwhile. A couple of beach restaurants serve food and drinks. Water taxis from Amalfi harbor are an easier alternative to the stairs (EUR 5). The snorkeling here is good around the rocky edges.
Food and Experiences
Eat seafood pasta with a sea view
Scialatielli ai frutti di mare (local thick pasta with mixed seafood) is the signature dish of the Amalfi Coast. Da Adolfo in Positano (boat access only), Lo Smeraldino in Amalfi, and Cumpa Cosimo in Ravello all serve excellent versions. Expect EUR 15-25 for seafood pasta at a restaurant with views. Lunch is better value than dinner at most places.
Take a limoncello or cooking class
Several farms and cooking schools along the coast offer lemon-themed experiences. Learning to make limoncello, lemon cake, or a full Amalfi Coast lunch typically costs EUR 60-100 per person. Mamma Agata in Ravello and Amalfi Lemon Experience are popular choices. Most include eating everything you prepare.
Visit a lemon grove
The terraced lemon groves are iconic to the coast. Several farms offer guided tours explaining the cultivation of the giant Sfusato Amalfitano lemons used for limoncello, lemon sorbet, and lemon delizia cake. Tours usually include tastings. Expect to pay EUR 20-30. The groves are most fragrant during flowering season (April-May).
Try delizia al limone (lemon delight cake)
A dome-shaped sponge cake soaked in limoncello and filled with lemon cream. It is the signature dessert of the Amalfi Coast, found at every restaurant and pasticceria. Sal De Riso in Minori is the most famous pastry shop on the coast and the place where many local pastries were invented or perfected.
Explore Vietri sul Mare ceramics village
The easternmost town on the coast is the center of Vietri ceramics, with hand-painted tiles, plates, and vases displayed on every shop front and building. The Ceramics Museum (free) traces the tradition. Prices are lower here than in Positano or Amalfi. The town's church dome is covered in colorful majolica tiles.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I get around the Amalfi Coast?
SITA buses run along the narrow coastal road connecting all towns (EUR 2.40 per ride, buy tickets at tobacco shops). The road is winding and buses get crowded in summer. Ferries run between Positano, Amalfi, Minori, and Salerno from April to October (EUR 8-12). Water taxis offer convenience at higher cost. Renting a car is stressful due to extremely narrow roads, limited parking, and aggressive driving.
How many days do I need on the Amalfi Coast?
Three to five days allows a relaxed visit to the main towns, a hike, a boat trip, and proper time to enjoy the food and atmosphere. Two days covers Positano and Amalfi but misses Ravello and the hiking. A single day trip from Naples or Sorrento gives only a taste. The coast is best experienced at a slow pace rather than rushing between towns.
When is the best time to visit the Amalfi Coast?
May through June and September through mid-October offer warm weather, swimming conditions, and fewer crowds than peak summer. July and August are very hot, extremely crowded, and significantly more expensive. April has pleasant temperatures and spring wildflowers but the sea may be too cold for swimming. Most hotels and restaurants close from November through March.
Where should I stay on the Amalfi Coast?
Positano is the most glamorous and expensive. Amalfi town has the best transport connections and a town center feel. Ravello offers tranquility and culture but is not on the water. Minori and Maiori are less touristy with lower prices. Budget travelers should consider Salerno or Sorrento as bases with ferry or bus access. Wherever you stay, book well in advance for peak season.